3D Printed Humanoid Robot – Robonoid – Design concept – 20180619

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Humanoid Robot – Robonoid – Design concept – https://youtu.be/n-flpiyNw-M


3D Design Tool: SketchUp Pro

Robonoid is small sized bipedal walking robot The robot has 17 or 19, 24 freely moveable joints and servomotor in order to provide for a range of action and stable movements. Since it’s small in size, Robonoid can balance well and cope with basic movements such as walking and getting up. Also, intricate movements like roller skating and skateboarding are possible.

Robonoid is a wireless controllable robot You can control it by WiFi protocol through your PC and Smartphones. App for android and iOS are an especially intelligible UI. By using it, complicated operations can be controlled more easily.

Robonoid is a friendly robot Robonoid was named indicates a “simply shaped robot” that everyone imagines. Robonoid was designed by pursuing a simple appearance and simple functionality.

Robonoid Lineup


PSY – 135.7mm(W) x 258.39mm(H) x 100mm(D) – 17DOF
Jack – 135.7mm(W) x 305.62mm(H) x – 92,48mm(D) – 22DOF
Gentleman – 135.7mm(W) x 341.22mm(H) x – 78.5mm(D) – 22DOF
Tony – 135.7mm(W) x 265.5mm(H) x – 100mm(D) – 18DOF
SpongwBob – 135.7mm(W) x 230.0mm(H) x 100mm(D) – 16DOF
Hudi – 135.7mm(W) x 251.4mm(H) x 87mm(D) – 19DOF
Gunmo – 135.7mm(W) x 259.3mm(H) x 78.5mm(D) – 19DOF – https://youtu.be/qIZJZDcRpVw
Nova – 135.7mm(W) x 282.8mm(H) x 100mm(D) – 17DOF – https://youtu.be/kzfyKRzp_9I
Hexapod S1 – DOM 352.83mm(WD) x 193.16mm(H) – 20DOF

Robonoid is a Plen/mini-Plan/RoboHero robot derivative designed at Zalophus DesignHouse. We love the Plen2 robot but its want to new design. This is our take on a new lower cost version of the Plen2 robot using MG90S/ES08MA-II/SG90 servo’s.

The 3D printing parts were inspired by the Plen2 components, but they were redrawn from SketchUp to use the inexpensive MG90S servo motors.

Electronic Parts

1 x WeMos D1 mini ESP8266 ESP-12
1 x PCA9685 16-channel, 12-bit PWM Fm+ I2C-bus Servo controller
1 x Shield Robonoid-20CH-R0a
1 x HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Distance Measurement Sensor
2 x 16340 or 18650 Battery Holder
1 x 2S 7.4V Lithium Battery Charger Protection Board
2 x 16340 or 18650 Batteries
2 x Snap-In Single ‘A’-‘AA’ Battery Contacts 209 [KEYSTONE ELECTRONICS CORP.]
2 x Snap-In Single ‘A’-‘AA’ Battery Contacts 228 [KEYSTONE ELECTRONICS CORP.]
1 x DC Jack and Battery Harness Cable
17/19 x MG90S Metal Gear Servo Motors

3D Printing Parts

WANT TO SUPPORT Zalophus’s DesignHouse?

The open source Humanoid Robot – Robonoid hardware and software is free and made with love. Please show your level of support with a voluntary donation.

Donate: https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=RDN7ZGAVFS5UE


Setting up the Arduino IDE on Raspbian

 If you have used the Sleepy Pi setup script you DO NOT need to do this. The script has already set this up for you.

The following instructions relate to installation on the standard Raspberry Pi Operating System (OS) Raspbian. Following the principals shown here, it should be possible to apply these same modifications to other Raspberry OS’s.

The Arduino processor on the Sleepy Pi can be programmed directly from the Arduino IDE running on the Raspberry Pi.

The first step is to load the Arduino environment onto the Raspberry Pi. If you haven’t already done so, it’s a good idea to ensure that your Raspbian is up to date by opening up an LXTerminal window and executing the following:

Note the dist-upgrade will ensure that you have the latest versions of RPi.GPIO which will be required later.

Now install the Arduino IDE with:

(click Y to any dependencies)

Setting up the Serial Pins

The Arduino processor on the Sleepy Pi can be programmed directly from the Raspberry Pi using the serial GPIO lines on the RPi and another GPIO line to reset the the Arduino to allow automatic code upload. These pins are:



GPIO 22: Reset (see next section)

By default Raspbian has exclusive access to the serial pins to output status, debug data and logging in. We need to change that using the following steps.

Step 1: Disable Serial login


Raspbian allows you to login using the serial port. To use the Sleepy Pi we need to disable this. To do this, we need to edit /etc/inittab.

In an LXTerminal window type:

Scroll down the bottom and you will find the lines:

You need to comment the last line out (i.e. disabling it) with a “#” and save it, so that it results in:

Jessie and Raspberry Pi 3

Raspbian Jessie no longer has the /etc/inittab file and replaces it instead with a mechanism called systemd and you use a tool called systemctl to enable / disable services.

In a terminal type the following commands, for all Raspberry Pi’s except Raspberry Pi 3:

Instead, for Raspberry Pi 3:

On Jessie, you also need to enable the serial port in either rasp-config of in /boot/config.txt with:

and add the line:

Step 2. Disable Boot info

When Raspbian boots up it outputs boot information to the serial port and hence streams it to the Sleepy Pi (which is not particularly interested in it). To disable this we need to edit the /boot/cmdline.txt in LXTerminal:

It will look something like:

Delete the “console=serail0,115200″ parts so that you are left with:

This is the file I use:

Step 3. Link the Serial port to the Arduino IDE

NOTE: For Raspberry Pi 3 Omit Step 3 – /dev/ttyS0 is the default mapping not /dev/ttyAMA0 which is used for the Bluetooth.

The Arduino IDE wants to use the /dev/ttyS0 serial port, but we need to use the /dev/ttyAMA0 which is linked to the GPIO. In order to do this we need to create a permanent link that maps AMA0 to S0. To this we need to create a small file. We can do this in LXTerminal by the following sequence:

In the new file that it creates type the following:

Save this file as a new file called “80-sleepypi.rules” to: /etc/udev/rules.d/

This is the one I use:

Setting up the Reset (DTR) pin

The Sleepy Pi Arduino processor reset line in connected to GPIO 22. To automatically upload code from the Arduino IDE we need to pulse this line low to rest the Arduino and enter bootload mode.

On a normal Arduino system connected to a computer via a USB / serial cable the reset line is connected to the DTR line. To replicate this behavior on the Raspberry Pi we need to hack the AVRDude programming software. Dean Mao has detailed a great hack for this. He’s produced a modified version of Avrdude (avrdude-autoreset) and written a piece of python code (autoreset) that runs in the background and pulses the GPIO line when required.

Download the avrdude-rpi files from Github . Select “Download ZIP” file which will download the file into your /home/pidirectory.

NOTE: this is a subtly modified version of the original Dean Mao version so only use this version.

Open up a File Manager window from the bottom toolbar, locate the ZIP file in your /home/Pi directory and right-click and select xarchiver to extract the files to a folder in /home/Pi. These will extract into a folder named “avrdude-rpi-master“.

If you are using a terminal rather than the GUI, you can use the following from the command lines to download and unzip :

Next, copy the files to the appropriate places from a LXTerminal window using the following commands:

This renames your original avrdude, so that you have a backup and can replace it with the new one.

Then link the new avrdude-autoreset to avrdude with the ‘ln” command so that when something calls for avrdude, the new version runs instead.

Adding the Sleepy Pi to the Arduino environment

To enable the Sleepy Pi to be selected from the IDE you need to add a folder and file to your sketchbook. If it is a fresh install and you haven’t yet run the Arduino environment you’ll need to create a sketchbook folder (skip this step if it already exists).

In LXTerminal type:

to create folders “hardware” and “sleepy pi” in your Arduino sketchbook.

Download and copy the boards.txt file to the Sleepy Pi folder.

This file should look like this:


And finally reboot your Raspberry Pi to complete and load all our changes. You can use:

LED Matrix Bar Weather Station V1 – 3D Modeling


  • ESP8266 WeMos D1 mini module which I finally found good application for (now you can buy better cheap ESPs)
  • 6 x LEDMatrix module with MAX7219 driver
  • supplied directly from USB port with USB plug
  • all data are synchronized every 7-8 minutes
  • time and date are taken from google.com
  • weather informations are grabbed from openweather.org JSON api
  • in the future also other news and infos grabbing can be possible
  • no hardware RTC clock is necessary
  • responsive web(UI) design
  • internal temperature, humidity sensor (options – DS18B20, DHT22, DHT12)
  • ESP8266 setup and control as a Wi-Fi Web Server (WiFiManager, OTA, mDNS)
  • receives a message input from a User Input page, then displays the message on a scrolling LED matrix display.

Parts List:

  • 6 x MAX7219 8 x 8 LED Matrix module
  • 1 x WeMos D1 mini
  • 1 x Interface shield

Additional Parts:

  • N x DS18B20 temperature sensor
  • 1 x DHT22 temperature and humidity sensor
  • 1 x DHT12 temperature and humidity sensor
  • N x WS2812B RGB LED

Source code is available here:
The code is being cleaned up. Please wait… I’ll share it soon.

3D Parts:

NOTE: Recently added support for rotated LED Matrices


The open source ProfileBlock hardware and software is free and made with love. Please show your level of support with a voluntary donation.






miniMe™ – DIY mini Robot Platform – Design Concepts

miniMe™ is 3D printing DIY mini robot platform

  • Balancing Robot
  • Rover
  • Line Tracer
  • Etc…

miniMe-BB: TT motor type

miniMe-BB: N20 motor type

miniMe-BB: SG90 Servo Motor type

miniMe-Rover: Servo motor type (Standard Servo)

miniMe-Rover: TT motor type

Designs – pinshape


Designs – Thingiverse


PANDORA Jr. DXs – DIY 3D Printer – 3D Design Conceptby ZalophusDec 12, 2017

LED Matrix Bar Weather Station V1by ZalophusDec 5, 2017

ProfileBlock™ – Balancing Robot – DIY Robot Platformby ZalophusNov 12, 2017

ProfileBlock™ – DIY Robot Platform – Design Conceptsby ZalophusApr 19, 2017

Project Hexapod Robot – H1 – Design conceptby ZalophusOct 1, 2016

Project Humanoid Robot – M1 – Design conceptby ZalophusOct 1, 2016

Super Ultra Compact Pan/Tilt Camera Mount – V2by ZalophusOct 1, 2016

Super Ultra Compact Pan/Tilt Camera Mount – V1 Upgradeby ZalophusJan 4, 2016

MobBob V2 Remix Upgrade – Smart Phone Controlled Robotby ZalophusJan 4, 2016

CapBot – DIY Web Controlled Camera RoBotby ZalophusJan 3, 2016

Modular Holderby ZalophusDec 30, 2015

18650 x 2 Battery Bankby ZalophusDec 30, 2015

Smartphone Stand Type C (Clip-Y)by ZalophusDec 30, 2015

MobBob V2 Remix – Smart Phone Controlled Robotby ZalophusDec 30, 2015

My Customized USB stick and SD card holderby ZalophusDec 23, 2015

Modular Holderby ZalophusOct 23, 2015

Binocular Tripod Adapterby ZalophusSep 11, 2015

Smartphone Stand Type C (Clip)by ZalophusAug 26, 2015

Smartphone Stand Type D (Delta)by ZalophusAug 22, 2015

Smartphone Stand Type F (Fire)by ZalophusAug 17, 2015

Smartphone Stand Type B (Beta)by ZalophusAug 17, 2015

PokeBall – Upgrade Ball Caseby ZalophusJul 28, 2015

Ball Caseby ZalophusJul 19, 2015

Barrelby ZalophusJul 17, 2015

Desktop Cooling FAN & LED Light – DeskFAN 3D Designby ZalophusJul 13, 2015

HexaBot – DIY Delta 3D Printer – 3D Designby ZalophusJul 9, 2015

PANDORA DXs – DIY 3D Printer – 3D Designby ZalophusJul 9, 2015

FAN 90mm Replacementby ZalophusJul 7, 2015

PANDORA DXs – Profile DRF 3030 Corner Coverby ZalophusJul 7, 2015

Kitchen Sink Drain Coverby ZalophusJul 7, 2015

Profile DRF 3030 Corner Capby ZalophusJun 2, 2014

Super Ultra Compact Pan Tilt Camera Mount – V1by ZalophusJun 2, 2014

TerraControl – with NodeMCU Webserver

UPDATE 3: Version 1.3

I’m working on making the code as user friendly as possible but it’s going to be a long run. I’d like to have separate html and css files but I’m still figuring it out. For now, few changes…:

  • ! ! ! included mDNS protocol, so from now on you don’t need IP address to connect to your NodeMCU, simply put terracontrol.local in your browser and you are done (you have to be on the same network, of course)
  • separate file for setting up the variables (setting.h). Unzip the file to your Projects folder, when you open the *.ino file, setting.h should be opened as well.

UPDATE 2: Version 1.2

  • improved graph displaying range
  • new values in graphs are moved to the end of array, not starting from the beginning again
  • improved light setting – it is now unlimited (ON time can now be later than OFF time)
  • code for manual defining your own server is in one place and commented by default (i.e. it is on automatic setting)
  • clearer information in serial monitor
  • unified function for min/max values in array
  • new function for printing out minute values

UPDATE 1: Please see the version 1.1 I got the graphs and statistics working! Well, sort of…the range is still not as I want it to be, but at least now it is correctly displaying min and max. Plus new mouseover feature for the individual values in the graph.

After my first attempt to create controlled terrarium using Arduino board I got my hands on NodeMCU 12E board and I knew it was going to be a big step up!

I took me a few days before I began to understand how this board works (thanks to a lot of instructables here and google of course) and the possibilities it had. It think I’m on the right path to create exactly what I was dreaming about for several years…

So what is TerraControl v1.2 capable of?

  1. 2 automatically controlled relays (light timer and heating)
  2. 2 manually controlled relays (fan, second heating)
  3. GMT time change
  4. Simple graphs with highest/lowest temperature/humidity over the last 24 hours
  5. Monitoring temperature and humidity in terrarium
  6. All accessible and adjustable through webserver using HTML and CSS

What is necessary:

  • given the nature of NodeMCU board (its output is only 3.3v) you will either have to buy 3.3V relay board, or modify 5v board, or buy I2C logic converter module – for example – $0.9
  • 5V source (I’m using older usb charger)
  • wires
  • solder
  • case/box
  • Arduino IDE

Step 1: Getting the Parts Together

Connecting these parts is easy, just look at the source code and keep in mind that GPIO’s of the NodeMCU board is different from the actual boards description (as seen on the trird picture):

//Define sensor pins
#define SENSOR_IN 15 //D8
#define SENSOR_IN_Type DHT22

//Define Relay pins
#define relayLight 5 //D1
#define relayHeat 4 //D2
#define relayFan 12 //D6
#define relayHeat2 14 //D5

i.e. DHT sensor pin goes to D8 (board’s D3, D4, D8 can’t be used as output but can be used as input), and the relay pins accordingly to the code. Remember, if you are using 5V relay, you need to modify the relay board or use I2C logic converter.

! ! ! IMPORTANT! When uploading the code to the board, you have to disconnect the DHT sensor, otherwise you will get an error when attempting to upload ! ! !

All parts can be powered with 5v power adapter

Step 2: Setup and Customization

Before we upload the code, there are few things that needs to be set up in setting.h:

//You WiFi AP
const char ssid[] = “SSID Name”; // insert your WiFi AP name
const char pass[] = “password”; // insert your WiFi password

// T E R R A R I U M S E T T I N G
float tempMin = 24; // temperature in Celsius for switching the heating ON
float tempMax = 30; // temperature in Celsius for switching the heating OFF

int humMin = 50; // minimum humidity in %
int humMax = 70; // maximum humidity in %

// hour and minute for light to go ON
int lightOn_hour = 7;
int lightOn_min = 0;

// hour and minute for light to go OFF
int lightOff_hour = 20;
int lightOff_min = 30;

// Central European Time (1 for winter time)
int timeZone = 2;

Uncomment the following part of the code if you know how to define your server manually or just run the code and get addresses from the serial monitor.

IPAddress ip(192, 168, 0, 111); //Node static IP
IPAddress gateway(192, 168, 0, 1);
IPAddress subnet(255, 255, 255, 0);
WiFi.config(ip, gateway, subnet);

All done? Great, let’s move on…

Step 3: Alwas ON/OFF Relay Connection

One thing I wanted was the relay board to be used as little as possible. As you probably know, relays have two possible ways of connection: ON when not used and ON when used. So I connected the light and heating to “ON when not used” (heating is almost always ON and lights are ON for about 13-14 hours every day) and fan and heating 2 to “ON when used” (I barely need to use one of them).

That is why the code for the same function is using different values:

if (heatVal == 1) {
} else {
client.println(“OFF”); }


if (heat2Val == 1) {
} else {
client.println(“ON”); }

You can of course modify the code according to your needs.

Now just connect the DHT sensor and let’s look at the result!

Step 4: Webserver

When you open the webserver you will see simple page with all information about your terrarium and some features:

  • Light ON/OFF time can be adjusted (step are: 1 hour for hour setting and 5 min for minute setting). At the moment ON time has to be earlier that OFF time (ON 22:30 and OFF 0:30 will not work – yet) – fixed in version 1.2
  • Temperature setting (steps are 0.5 degree Celsius)
  • Manualy turn ON/OFF other two relays – Fan and Heat 2 and adjust timezone when the time changes

if needed, change your timezones in following part of the code:

if (request.indexOf(“/TIMEZONE_SWITCH”) != -1) {
if (timeZone == 1) {
timeZone = 2;
} else {
timeZone = 1;
} }

  • Webserver is using automatic time synchronization

Step 5: Disclosure

I know that the HTML and CSS code could be much more simple and the coding is not really user friendly but for the moment it works as it is supposed to (only the graphs are not very accurate but I’m still working on them) and I will get to these points when I start working on version number two. I have already decided to use external power supply (in this version I just stripped the 5v adapter and soldered it inside the box) and I also want the power cables to be more accessible and easier to connect/disconnect. I hope you guys (and your pets) will appreciate this instructable, if you do, please leave a short comment. And of course, suggestions are more than welcome! Thank you

Arduino Polar V Plotter

This Instructable will be about Polar Plotters.

There are a lot of different versions to build one, and i just wanna share how i built it.

The Software i use is called Makelangelo, and can be downloaded here:


If you have further questions or ideas to perfect my design, please feel free to comment 🙂

Watch it draw:

And the idea of the penholder, as video:


(all prices like i paid on amazon)

2 stepper motors 2×25$

I used NEMA8 and NEMA17. Both work well, the 8beeing a quarter of the size of the 17.

If you want to get an idea for the numbers of NEMA steppers, its 1/10 of the distance between two nearby mounting holes. In inches.

So in a NEMA 8 motor, the mounting holes are placed on an 0,8″x0,8″ square. Pretty tiny.

Stepper motor drivers 30$ from adafruit or 8$ clone

As i used the Makelangelo firmware, i used an Adafruit Motorshield v1 (clone)
Makelangelo runs with(out modification) on an Uno with AMShield v1 and v2, and with a MEGA 2560 and the RAMPS 1.4 shield.
I tested the uno with v1 and the RAMPS setup, both work.

Micro servo or Solenoid 5$ each

Both work, the solenoid is the more elegant option, but needs some tweaks to the firmware.
You can take virtually any servo available.

On my penholder, i use a standard 5$ microservo, as you can see on some photos.

Belt/Chain 12$ (see dedicated step)

The cheaper and more elgant version is the belt.
I still used white pearlropes from home depot first, because i didnt know that 5m belt with 5 pulleys are 12$ on amazon.

Pens (see dedicated steps)

It sucks pens dry like nothing, so ballpens are the most efficient, copics the most expensive


I used an Arduino (Genuino) UNO, but ordered a feather M0 with a stepperwing, to make it more compact.
There isnt any special thing to consider, just plug the shield to the arduino and give it the code 🙂

On thing i found out is, the L284 drivers get really really hot, so if they didnt came with heatsinks, better add some, or mount a fan like i did.

Probably both, depending on the motors/weight.

To mount the cooling fan i took a sheet of 3mm fibreglass and cut it with a jigsaw.
The fan is pretty strong and loud, i probably add a pot in the future to tune it down a bit.


Basically there are three systems.

Beginning with the worst possible version:

A spindle and some rope.

The problem is, that with spooling of the rope, the spindle-diameter changes, so the calculation isnt correct anymore, which ends in wacky drawings.

A Pearlchain from window-shutters.

Very light and precise setup. I have built a big plotter for shop windows and liquid chalk that uses two 3m ropes.
The problem with the rope and the pearls is, that it needs special idler pulleys if you wanna use idler pulleys at all.

A belt from 3d printing spares

To me the best and most affordable version is a 5mm belt. As i wrote earlier i bought 5m of belt together with five teeth pulley for 12$ on amazon.
Its super precise, though i think it flexes more then the rope.


The easiest and cleanest version is to just mount a teeth pulley on the motor and let it go.
Be sure to add some counterweight, to prevent slip.

If you want or need to make it more complex, i added some photos, that solve different problems i had at that time.

On the NEMA17 stepper photos:

One thing i always tried to do was to keep distance between the left and right idler pulley as wide as possible.
In a polar v plotter, one situation that is sub-optimal is, when one of the belts hangs down vertically.
Thats the position where the motors have the least control about what the pen is doing.

I tried to avoid that, by mounting the last idler pulleys wider then the canvas.

Next i had to mount a second idler to get the counterweight out of the line.

On the NEMA 8 photo:

This will be a small A3 version, that hangs on the wall, framed, and takes portrait of random people.
O the goal was to make it as flat as possible. As you can see there is one 90degree twist in the belt to get the motor parallel to the wall.
All idlers have double ball bearings and run supersmooth


There are endless versions how to mount a pen and lift a pen hanging on two ropes.

The blue penholder on the photos is made from a segafredo coffeecan some makeblock parts and a servo.
The second (yellow) version is made for endless-lines drawings (without lifting) and is made of three ballbearings and three 3mm fibreglass parts.

If anyone is interested in the second design, i will get a 3d printer very soon, and can add a 3d file as soon as i tested/printed it on my printer.


I would say there are three classic surfaces for a plotter like that:

First the surface where the polar v plotter is the only plotter capeable to draw on:

Shopwindows/ windows in general

For drawing on windows, besides mirroring the graphics (which Makelangelo can do in the software) you need suction cups/glasslifters and liquid chalk pens.
Liquid chalk seems to be some sort of chemical substance that you can paint on windows with and easily wipe it of to clean the windows.
Its filled in a regular boardmarker sized pen.


Also easily removable and a perfect surface to permanently mount a drawbot.
you can test directly on the whiteboard without wasting paper, and once it runs smooth, just use four magnets and put a paper on it.

Paper in general, obviously

The rougher the paper surface, the better.
The less preassure a pen needs to write, the better.

Even if the pen holder is heavy, it puts a very tiny force on the actual drawing surface.
You can always add force, by tilting the surface backwards.

On the big whiteboard plotter i mounted in my office i lifted the base of the whiteboard by 2″/5cm to get some angle.


That’s pretty straight forward, just visit their site, and download the files.

Dont forget to contribute a bit, so they can keep on developing fine software like Makelangelo


The code, and java is well documented, so i wont discuss it in detail.


Some ideas, what to do with a plotter like that, and how i use it.

On a whiteboard in the office
I work for a creative school and i got it in my office, to plot svg files graphic design students made, or print other stuff i would normally write on it, like xls sheets etc

With a laser-head on wooden doors, print foilage on hunterstands etc

With a spraycan on a housewall

With a felt tip on a dirty window

eX-Robot – ProfileBlock™ Robot Platform

[ Upload 20170424]
[ Upload design concept 20170418]

ProfileBlock – Balancing Robot – DIY Robots Platform

3D Design Tool: SketchUp Pro

ProfileBlock’s robots are built on top of an open source Arduino-based(with ESP8266, Raspberry Pi) platform.

Self Balancing Robot (eX-Robot, B-Robot, Roverbot, …


Base Plate(Parts):

6 x ProfileBlock™ DF 2020 85mmAcrylic Plate (t = 3mm)1 x Top Plate1 x Bottom Plate
2 x Step Motor Mount Plate
1 x Front Plate
1 x Rear Plate3D Printing Parts
2 x Servo Mount ProfoleBlock
12 x Knob M5 Hexaheard
2 x Wheels 100mm or Inline Wheels 70mm(with 2 x Inline Wheels Hub)
2 x Tire Mudguards
1 x Stand1 x Battery Holder

Step Motor:

2 x Nema 17 Stepper Motor bipolar 4 leads 34mm 12V 1.3A 26Ncm(36.8oz.in) 3D printer motor 42SHD0001
2 x NEMA 17 – Phase: 4, Step Angle: 1.8 Deg/Step, Holding Torque: 2.6Kg.cm


1 x Standard Servo or SG90 Metal Servo
1 x Standard Servo (Option) or SG90 Metal Servo

12 x M5 10mm Nylon Bolts
12 x M5 8mm Nylon Bolts
12 x M5 Nylon Nuts
8 x M3 8mm Bolts
4 x M3 10mm Bolts
4 x M3 15mm Bolts
8 x M3 Nuts


Control Board:

1 x ESP8266 Witty Cloud or WeMos (eX-Robot)

1 x HC-SR04 ultra sonic module
1 X MPU6050
2 x A4988 Step Motor Drive
1 x LM1117-5.0 5,0V 1A Regulator
1 x LM1117-3,3 3,3V 1A Regulator
6 x 100uF 25V Capacitor
4 x 0.1uF Capacitor
1 x 220KOhm Resistor
1 x 100KOhm Resistor
4 x 10KOhm Resistor
7 x 8P Female Pin Header Connector 2.54mm Pitch
3 x 4P Male Pin Header Connector 2.54mm Pitch
2 x 3P Male Pin Header Connector 2.54mm Pitch
3 x 2P Male Pin Header Connector 2.54mm Pitch
1 x 2EDGK 5.08mm 2P Plug-in terminal connectors set
1 x Right Angle SPDT 4 Pin On-On I/O Boat Rocker Switch
1 x Interface Mother boardPower Requirements:8.4VDC
12 VDCBattery:2 x 18650 Litum Ion Battery = 7.2 VDC ~ 8.4 VDCSoftware:

ESP8266 WeMos D1 mini code: Coming soon…
WiFi UDP Control TouchOSC Layout file: Coming soon…

Arduino IDE (ESP8266 ESP-12E/F)Support SoftAP and StationSupport OTA (at Local network)Support mDNS (at Local network)

The open source ProfileBlock hardware and software is free and made with love. Please show your level of support with a voluntary donation.